The capital of Colombia is like no other city I have been to. Maybe it’s because I had friends here, maybe it’s because I got the true local feel of staying in real homes instead of hotels, or maybe it’s just that Bogota is super unique and wonderful!
My friends Maria and MJ got married recently in Bogota, which in spired my week-long trip back to Colombia. When they decided to have their wedding twice, once in the United States and once in Colombia for Maria’s family, I couldn’t say no to the invitation of a Colombian wedding in a city I had never been!
The Colombian Wedding
Before I get into the details of Bogota, let me talk a little about this most incredible wedding.
The wedding was held at Museo El Chicó, a park museum in the upscale Chicó neighborhood in northern Bogota. Built in the typical 18th-century hacienda style, Museo El Chicó has been functioning as a small museum since 1976 and was named a place of cultural interest in 1992. There is usually a small fee to enter and see the interesting collection of artwork.
Museo El Chicó has a beautiful little church, sophisticated event room, and a central garden with centuries-old trees. The perfect spot for a wedding! In fact, it’s actually a popular spot for weddings and other events, and passers-by in the park have grown accustomed to stopping by to watch.
So here’s what I learned about Colombian weddings:
- Apparently, bridesmaids and groomsmen aren’t that big of a deal, if they even have them in Colombian weddings. And instead of a maid of honor and best man, it’s more traditional to have godmothers and godfathers. (Maria’s and MJ’s wedding did not have this, but some research into Colombian weddings shows that this practice is typical in Colombia.)
- Since most Colombians are Catholic, a Catholic mass is common. Be prepared for a long ceremony with a lot of standing!
- It’s traditional for the groom to serenade the bride, which I actually found out after researching Colombian weddings. Since MJ is a singer by trade, this romantic gesture was totally expected from my point of view. But when I researched a little deeper, I found that this is actually a Colombian tradition!
- Expect a LOT of reggaeton music! And don’t forget that Colombians can dance, so get ready! We did all kinds of dances, including group battling, follow the leader, Zumba-style, salsa, and a lot of jumping around. Every song was a good song!
Neighborhoods of Bogota
Before going to Bogota, I didn’t have time to do much research. It looked like a big city with all the typical neighborhoods, but I didn’t know where was best. I’m going to break it down for anyone planning a trip to Bogota with my recommendations!
In general, the southern part of Bogota is more touristy, more historic, and a little more dangerous to unsuspecting tourists. The northern part of Bogota is, according to a taxi driver, “where the rich people live.” The central part, or the zona rosa, is where you’ll find most of the restaurants, bars, shopping stores, and normal city life.
Let’s start in the south.
La Candelaria
The most famous section of Bogota is the historical district, La Candelaria. It’s here you’ll find most of the famous landmarks, colorful houses, Spanish architecture, and museums.
La Candelaria is towards the southern end of Bogota. This is as south as I went in Bogota, but there is SO much to see and do here.
- Monserrate: a church and shrine high up on an Andes mountain overlooking all of Bogota, popular with tourists and pilgrims. It typically costs about 21,000 pesos ($7 USD) to take the cable car or funicular up the mountain, although prices vary depending on time and season.
- Plaza de Bolivar: a spacious square, great for taking pictures of beautiful Colombian architecture. There’s a cathedral, historic buildings, and TONS of pigeons.
- Museo del Oro: The Gold Museum. I’m not really a museum person, but this was a pretty cool spot. There’s four floors exhibiting over 55,000 different pieces of pre-Hispanic gold, ceramics, and stones. One of the most fascinating museums in South America! Free on Sundays.
- Plazoleta del Chorro de Quevedo: This tiny little plaza is a great place to hang out, catch some sun, buy some local goods, and watch talented locals performing (music, magic, art, hacky-sack, you name it!) Lined with cafes and a small white church, this is the best place to see some of La Candelaria’s most colorful rows of buildings.
- Catedral de Primada: Dominating Plaza de Bolivar, the neoclassical Catedral de Primada is Bogota’s largest cathedral and the seat of the Archbishop of Bogota. It was originally a simple thatched chapel but replaced by a more substantial structure in the 16th century. It collapsed twice (due to a poor foundation and an earthquake) until 1807 when the building you see today was erected. The spacious interior has relatively little decoration. Inside, you can see the tomb of the founder of Bogota.
- Palacio de Nariño: The official home and workplace of the President of Colombia. The Palacio de Nariño is equivalent to the White House in the United States. The name of Bogota’s presidential home honors Antonio Nariño, early political and military leader in Colombia’s independence movement.
- Museo Botero: A museum in a colonial mansion that features works from artist Fernando Botero (and others). Botero, born in Medellin, is a figurative artist and sculptor known for his portrayal of people in large, exaggerated volume, sometimes representing political criticism or humor.
Now here’s my warning: just be careful in La Candelaria. Any touristy city center draws a less-than-desirable crowd like pick pockets, drug dealers, and people looking to take advantage of a situation. Tourists come visiting with money and spend most of their time looking at the sights rather than watching their back, so the seedy characters know exactly when to strike.
I never had a problem in La Candelaria. No one ever offered me drugs or tried to steal me for sex trafficking or tried to sell my organs (which wouldn’t be much good to anyone anyway). Just be smart and don’t tempt fate. Don’t wear fancy jewelry, loose purses, or look like an airhead. Blend in and you’ll be just fine! And be careful of anyone trying to sell you any perico (you always learn the slang and bad words first, right?).
Teusaquillo
Teusaquillo is northwest of La Candelaria. It’s known for one of Bogota’s most loved wide open green spaces, Simon Bolivar Metropolitan Park. There’s a boating lake, walking trails, botanical gardens, smaller parks, and lots of street vendors. If you plan to spend a lot of time in La Candelaria, Teusaqillo might be a safer place to stay still close by.
Chapinero
Chapinero is the central region of Bogota, home to the Zona Rosa and Zona T. It’s the glitzy, glamorous city section of Bogota; exactly what you would expect from a capital city and more. Chapinero is a mixture of mountainside residential sections and city life.
The Chapinero neighborhood is where you’ll find most of the upscale restaurants, hotels, shopping centers, office buildings, and beautiful parks. Chapinero is the “center city,” the “downtown,” the “zona rosa;” it’s the city’s central business district. When I chose a hotel in Bogota after exploring all the neighborhoods for five days, I chose Chapinero.
“Zona rosa” is a term in Latin America that refers to the downtown area of a city. Chapinero is Bogota’s zona rosa. The zona rosa is actually narrowed down even more to the zona T, the nightlife hotspot of Bogota. Parque 93 is the center of the zona rosa. Any tours that don’t start in La Candelaria will pick you up at Parque 93.
Usaquén
Usaquén is Bogota’s trendy foodie hotspot. With tons of fusion eateries, upscale boutique restaurants, garden cafes, French bistros, brew pubs, and chic cocktail bars, you’re bound to find some delicious local cuisine in Usaquén. Usaquén is in the north of Bogota, one of the more upscale and wealthier neighborhoods in Bogota. Don’t miss out on Cafe Oma for breakfast, it’s a famous staple!
Other Things to Do in Bogota
In addition to the local sights within the city, there are a lot of great half-day and day trips. Most tours originate in La Candelaria, but some have stopping points at Parque 93 in Chapinero as well.
La Catedral de Sal
La Catedral de Sal (Salt Cathedral) of Zipaquira is an impressive underground Roman Catholic Church built into the tunnels of an old salt mine 180 meters underground. Popular with tourists and pilgrims, this Salt Cathedral actually holds masses every Sunday at 1:00 pm and on holidays.
In the old days of Colombia, the salt mines were the greatest source of income for locals. Salt was worth more even than gold! In fact, the Spanish word “sal” is where the word “salary” comes from.
Salt miners originally started building sanctuaries in the mine to pray in. In the 1950’s, they decided to expand it to an entire underground cathedral. It temporary closed in the 1990’s for safety reasons but reopened better than ever.
The dark walkways and ever-changing neon lighting create a spectacularly eerie effect. The pathways take you through the 14 stages of the cross before coming to the dome room. Through there, visitors get to see sculptures, chapels, impressive crosses, a nativity scene, and the cathedral itself. Don’t miss the Water Mirror, which is a completely dead still reflective lake which looks like a hole in the ground, but is actually reflecting the salt mine ceiling!
La Catedral de Sal is about an hour from Bogota. A 195,000-peso ($60 USD) tour from Bogota includes transportation, a stop in the adorable town of Zipaquira, a self-guided ticket to the Salt Cathedral, and an audio guide. Some of the reviews of La Catedral de Sal were pretty negative and I almost changed my mind about going, but I am SO happy I decided to do it. Don’t listen to the negative Nancy’s out there, the Salt Cathedral is well worth seeing!
Don’t sit out during the trip to Zipaquira, either. This quaint village at the base of the Salt Cathedral has a lot of history and culture. Five flags fly over the main square of Zipaquira, representing the five countries of Gran Colombia freed by Simon Bolivar. Grab a coffee at one of the local cafes, shop the handmade goods, and just enjoy strolling through this amazing town with a strong Spanish influence.
La Chorrera and El Chiflón Waterfalls
Take a nice drive through the mountains to Choachí, a small village at the base of the Colombian rainforest. From there, hike an hour and a half into the rain forest to find Colombia’s highest waterfall, La Chorrera.
The day trip to La Chorrera is about five to six hours total, and such an incredible journey from start to finish. For about 195,000 pesos ($60 USD), you start in La Candelaria with a local breakfast of arepas and Colombian coffee in a little market.
On the hour drive up into the mountains you’ll stop at different spots to learn about the local flora and fauna, special ecosystems above 3300 meters (11,000 feet) called paramos, how the indigenous Colombian people catch water from the humidity, and why the high Andean mountains of Colombia are sill green 4,200 meters (14,000 feet) up, with no ice or snow.
Choachí used to be an area overrun by guerrillas in the 90’s, but Colombia has become such an incredible, safe, beautiful country since then. Choachí is now a very safe area with a school, a church, a restaurant, and lots of farms. It’s here that you will park and begin the hike!
Now, this is not a hike for the faint of heart. Be prepared to walk uphill for a long time, four or five times each way. Of course you can go at your own pace, but make sure everyone in the group is going at your pace as well. I did see older people doing the hike, but be prepared to sweat, pant, and exhaust yourself. Bring solid hiking shoes or really good sneakers for this hike! And remember, you’re 14,000 feet up, so the air is thinner even for a strong athlete.
Once in the jungle, everything gets a little wetter and more humid. You start to hear more wildlife like birds and maybe even monkeys! The leaves get a little greener, the streams and waterfalls get a little more frequent, and your excitement level starts to rise.
There are actually two big waterfalls you pass on the three hour roundtrip hike. You pass by the first and go straight to La Chorrera, the biggest waterfall in Colombia, sixth biggest waterfall in South America, and 60th highest waterfall in the world. La Chorrera stands 600 meters (almost 2,000 feet) high. There are seven falls in the whole waterfall! If you choose the right guide (hint: Freddy with The True Colombian Experience), he will bring a local flute-like instrument and play music while you bask in the amazing presence of this mighty waterfall!
From here, travel back past the cliffs and chasms, cedar and mahogany, and creeks and streams to El Chiflón waterfall. Here, you can walk behind the waterfall or repel down off the escarpment! You can also swim in the lake at the bottom of El Chiflón if you like. It’s a great break on the trek back. Then, stop for delicious arepas or a wonderful Cuban lunch back in Choachí!
Finally, feel free to nap on the hour drive back to Bogota. If you’re still hungry and in the mood for some true Colombian cuisine at a great price, grab lunch at Restaurante El Rincón del Pacifico, Cra. 4 # 19-82, Bogotá.
Lake Guatavita
Who hasn’t heard of El Dorado? El Dorado was the term the Spanish used to describe a mythical tribal chief of the indigenous Colombian people. Legend has it that as an initiation rite, he covered himself in gold dust and submerged himself into Lake Guatavita. The indigenous Muisca people would throw gold into the lake to honor El Dorado, inspiring many unsuccessful attempts to drain Lake Guatavita. The legends of El Dorado have changed over time, but the lake remains about an hour and a half drive from Bogota.
Lake Guatavita is a beautiful lake in a crater rimmed with greenery. The area has lots of walking trails, bird-watching areas, and a reservoir for water sports. The nearby town of Guatavita has cafes for lunch, a craft center, and some beautiful traditional architecture.
Food Tour
I didn’t personally do a food tour, but so many people I met told me I should do one. The food tour starts in La Candelaria and lasts about three hours. You visit restaurants, local markets, and even a local house where you can make your own empanadas! They say this is the best way to discover true Colombian cuisine in the capital of the country. This tour is vegetarian-friendly and costs 60,000 pesos ($18 USD).
Walking Tour
I also did not go on a walking tour because I made my own walking tour of La Candelaria, however I feel like I would have gotten more out of a walking tour. You can definitely find free walking tours, but don’t forget to tip your guide, usually about 30,000 pesos ($9 USD). On the walking tour, you’ll see special monuments, popular squares, colorful buildings, impressive churches, and you will learn the history of Bogota.
Coffee Plantation Tour
The last tour I didn’t go on but wished I had time for was the coffee tour. This isn’t a walking tour of Bogota trying different coffees in different cafes; this is actually a trip out to the local and organic coffee plantation in Choachí, La Campesina! It costs about 250,000 pesos ($77 USD), but the price can go down with a bigger group. What better place to go to a coffee plantation than in Colombia!
Andres Carne de Res
Andres Carne de Res is THE most successful and famous bar/restaurant in Colombia. There are actually two Andres bars: one in Bogota, and the original in Chia (about 45 minutes north of Bogota).
Andres is packed with crazy decorations, stellar food, and alcohol-filled late night benders. In the Chia location, there are 11 dining areas, two dance floors, five kitchens, a climbing wall, and a stage for big-name concerts. In Bogota, there are about seven floors of bars. When you walk in, the first thing you come across is Dante’s The Divine Comedy, open to the line: “Abandon all hope, ye who enter here.”
If you eat at only one place in Bogota (or the surrounding area), make it Andres. Check the website when you’re in town for their concert lineup too! This is the spot to hit.
Charly Flow’s Recording Studio
This one might be obscure to most English-speaking people. Has anyone ever watch La Reina del Flow? (If not, watch it on Netflix! It has subtitles and it ROCKS.) La Reina del Flow has a villain named Charly Flow, a sexy reggaeton singer from Medellin who makes it big in Colombia. He opens his own recording studio, which they show quite often in the show.
Though the entire show takes place in Medellin, his recording studio is surprisingly based on a building in Bogota! It’s a pretty unique building and easy to get to off the highway. As a fan of the show, I had to stop by for a picture, tag Charly Flow in my Instagram story, and just wait for him to find me. And he did watch my story!
Foods to Try in Colombia
I have to make a special mention of a food I never heard of but immediately became obsessed with: granadillas.
Granadillas are a member of the passionfruit family. They look pretty weird when you break them open, but close your eyes and take that first bite. They are sweet and delicious! You can either “drink” the insides straight from the skin or spoon it out.
Take advantage of granadillas if you are in South America – they are impossible to find in the cooler climates of the United States!
On this note, there is another cousin to the granadillas and passionfruit called maracuya. In some restaurants, you can find maracuya sauce, which is the perfect sauce on fruit.
There is a special candy in Colombia called bocadillo. When I first heard this word, I thought, “a sandwich!” When I questioned the non-sandwich looking candy, it turns out bocadillo means sandwich in Spain, but it’s also Colombia’s special candy. It’s a sweet, sugary, gelatin-like candy great for providing sugar when you need a boost. Plus it’s delicious!
Borojo juice is so popular that restaurants will sell out of it before breakfast is over. It’s a sweet brown drink from the Pacific Coast, made from sugar cane. Definitely worth a try, if you can find it!
And finally, arepas. The main food of Colombia! Arepas are made with ground maize cornmeal. Fry them up, stuff them with anything you can think of, and enjoy! Arepas are delicious, local, and easy. Definitely find and eat as many arepas as you can while you’re in Colombia.
Sundays
The last thing worth noting is that in Bogota, many of the streets are closed on Sundays. This makes traffic worse and getting around a little more difficult, but it is so cool to be able to walk down the streets and not worry about getting hit by a car.
According to a local, the mayor of Bogota likes people to be healthy and ride bikes so he closes the streets for bikers. It is pretty impressive to see how many people take advantage of the closed streets and bike everywhere. If you were ever to go on a bike tour of Bogota, Sunday mornings are the times to go!
Final Thoughts
Bogota is one of my favorite places to travel to. The people are so friendly, nice, warm, and welcoming. The last two days I was in Bogota, I was by myself. But I never felt alone!
The last night, I met up with the guide from my waterfall tour at the Doors Rock Bar in La Candelaria for some aguardiente (the local drink of Colombia). The little group slowly grew with other people he had take on different tours, or just people that were just looking for friends. Eventually, our group spread from one wall of the bar to the other, including people from Australia, Spain, Scotland, the US, and Colombia. This is so typical of Colombia that I recommend it as one of the best places to travel solo.
Even after just meeting people briefly, every single person was so quick to invite us over for dinner, offer tips and advice on what to do or where to go, or introduce us to other people that could help us. Bogota really is an incredible place that just made me smile at every turn.
If you get the chance to visit Bogota, DO IT. You won’t regret it, and you will be always on the lookout for cheap flights back. If you have visited Bogota, do you agree with me? What was your favorite thing to do there? Reminisce with me in the comments below!
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